A day on the trail

We woke up to the sounds of beautiful chanting this morning from the Buddhist monastery beside us in Ghandruk. I thought it was Anne's iPhone alarm because we wanted to make sure we were up for the sunrise behind the mountains. The skies were beautifully clear and brilliantly blue and we saw the sun rise behind Machupuchare and Annapurna South. Every morning we have had the same routine - up when the sunrises, we pack our duffle bags so that the porters can lash them together. Breakfast usually consists of an egg omelet and chapati or toast and tea. We pay up for our food and generally leave our tea house by 8 am. By 9 am the clouds start to drift in and the top of Machupuchare is hidden. We are typically on the trails for 6 or 7 hours, with many rest stops along the way. Trekking here is really climbing up and down the river valleys. Today we spent 1.5 hours climbing up from Ghandruk (2012 metres) only to spend the next hour climbing down to the river bed of the Kimrong Khola where we stopped for lunch. Then we spent 3 hours climbing up to Chomrong at 2042 metres. The steps on the trail are all made of stone (mostly slate) and are everywhere - it is unbelievable that this people-highway cross-crosses this entire country. But we go one step at a time. My focus faltered today and I stumbled and almost fell off the trail. Fortunately Rohindra (Sams's porter) caught me before I was a goner. We also have to be very careful when the mule trains come -they don't stop for anything- they terrify me! Fortunately they have loud bells that herald their arrival. Of course we have to be careful we don't step and slip in the freshly deposited horse poop. It is very slippery and a bit smelly. When I can't believe that I can climb another step, we have arrived at our destination which is usually between 2 and 3. Tonight we are spoiled again at a lodge that has hot showers and wifi! Great food and spectacular views. We taught Bakaji how to play 9 5 2 today (a card game) until dinner (momo's which are dumplings) which we usually eat around 7 pm. Once dinner is done Sam shares his delicious Cognac - which is a lovely nightcap. We are then usually in bed by 8:30!
Well it's almost bedtime and time to get ready for another big day tomorrow! We are heading to Bamboo at 2335 metres and then we enter the Annapurna Sanctuary!